man & nature # 205 ~ come on and surfari with me
Sometimes photographers just wanna have fun.
Hugo, who has quite the penchant for making life-event schedules such as - "I will boogieboard by myself when I'm 5", was 5 days shy of his 5th birthday when these pictures were made (by the wife) last week at the Jersey Shore. So, it was piggyback boogieboarding for him or no boogieboarding at all.
Fortunately, on the only day that I actually visited the beach - late in the day after a very hot and muggy round of golf - there were some pretty good swells and breakers (5-6') that allowed for decent boogieboarding - waves that the big surfing dudes would call "ankle busters".
Nevertheless and fer sure, we were able to catch quite a number of really bitchin' rides all the way into the beach from about 50 yds. out in the bone yard. Even though we never shot the curl or got in the green room, Hugo (who is obviously a grommet, aka - a young hodad) thought the whole deal was mongo gnarlatious. He was stoked.
The fact that he didn't have to experience a wipe out or a neptune cocktail (after which one usually starts selling buicks) made the surfari totally awesome. Hugo was amped to the max. If the words "cowabunga" or "bonzai" were in his vocabulary, he certainly would have used them instead of repeatedly saying, "cool, way cool".
Me? I was just trying to breathe cause the stranglehold Hugo had on my throat was rather gnarly, dude.
FYI, if you need them, translations can be found here.
Reader Comments (2)
but seriously, who bodysurfs while wearing a golf hat?
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