tuscany # 66-69 ~ the seat of power

Pius II's gardens ~ Pienza, Tuscany • click to embiggen
Val d'Orcia from Pius II's garden ~ Pienza, Italy • click to embiggenPope Pius II - Enea Silvio Piccolomini - was an interesting guy due in large part to the fact that he was a humanist. That and the fact that during the first 42 years of his life he was more than a bit of a rake (a no-marriage father of 2 children - pre-cleric - by 2 different women, 1 in Scotland, 1 in Strasburg) as well as an author (The Tale of Two Lovers - the bestselling book of the 15th century), poet (poet laureate - court of Emperor Frederick III, Vienna) - erotic poems his specialty, playwright (Chrysis - an "obscene" comedy), traveler, and something of a political opportunist. And speaking of opportunist, he became a priest at age 42 because ... imagine this ... he reckoned that there were more opportunities open to him as a cleric.

All of the man's follies and foibles are well known because Pius II wrote an uncommonly honest, forthright, and detailed (lengthy) autobiography, Commentaries, which is the only autobiography ever written by a reigning Pope.

Interesting, but what captures my imagination the most about Pius II is his arguably egomaniacal razing of the village of his birthplace, Corsignano, and the rebuilding of it with the first application of humanist urban planning concepts - concepts that were adopted in other Italian towns and cities and eventually spread to other European centers. And of course, after the rebuilding, Pius II renamed the village Pienza or "Pope's Village".

The humanist urban planning revolved around the notion of an ideal Renaissance village. The central piazza (plaza) is defined by 4 buildings: Palazzo Piccolomini, the Pope's (summer) residence; the Duomo (Cathedral); Palazzo Borgia, the palace to house the bishops who would travel to Pienza to attend the pope; and, Palazzo Comunale, the town hall.

All of that said and relative to the above pictures, Pienza is perfectly situated on a hilltop with an amazing and panoramic view of Val d'Orcia to the south. Knowing full well how to gild a lily, Pius II had his piazza placed on the edge of the hillside with with 3 stories of balconies facing south overlooking both his gardens and the Val d'Orcia. No matter which way one may choose to look, the view is nothing short of absolutely stunning.

The wife and I took a tour of Palazzo Piccolomini where, unfortunately for me, no picture making was allowed inside the residence. When we were in Pius II's bedroom, I so wanted to picture the elaborate and ornate throne-like chair that sat in the corner of the room because, with its hinged seat, it was, indeed, the Pope's "throne".

BTW, it's worth a mention that, as I was picturing the view of Val d'Orcia and the gardens, the heavens set forth some glorious light with which I was able to picture. I consider those moments of grace as a papal blessing for all of my clean living.

Val d'Orcia from a balcony ~ Palazzo Piccolomini - Pienza, Italy • click to embiggen

The keen viewer of the above pano may be able to pick out elements of at least 2, if not all 3 of the above telephoto-lens views of Val d'Orcia.