ku # 548 ~ some ins and outs
Continuing with our POD theme, we move on to the blank page / content.
But, before going there, I would be remiss if I didn't mention one critical factor, in fact, the most critical factor in obtaining good results - your monitor and its calibration.
Simply stated reasonable monitor calibration is a must but notice that I used the word "reasonable", not "perfect". That's because, at least on the Mac side of things, there is a way to achieve decent monitor calibration without having to own a calibration device. For those of you using a Mac, that procedure can be found in your System Preferences / Display settings. It's a fairly intuitive process and even if you don't get it exactly right it will still be a lot better than not doing it.
Important Caveat: Monitor calibration - with or without a calibration device - should be performed in a darkened environment as should all image editing. The monitor screen should have little or no ambient light striking it. That's the way the "big boys" do it.
My workstation is on a countertop installed in an alcove. The walls/ceiling in the alcove are painted a neutral 50% grey. My monitor and keyboard sit on a large black desktop blotter. The room lighting is on a dimmer switch set to very dim.
I am certain that most of you will not go to these lengths but here's the important thing. Try to calibrate in the same light conditions in which you will do your image editing. In other words, DON'T calibrate in a room flooded with daylight and then edit at night with tungsten light. Try your utmost to keep the room light constant both in intensity and color temperature. Think of it as the correct "white balance".
Now, on to the blank page.
I do all of my book design and layout, to include typography, in Photoshop. Photoshop's type tools are pretty sophisticated at this point. No, they are not as good as InDesign but they are more than up to the task of the requirements of photo book design wherein pictures, not typography, is the feature.
Pro power-user that I am, I use the full version of PS. I believe that PS Elements has type tools as well. If you do not have either of these programs, in order to work with a blank page you must have a page layout program that allows you to work with type and images together and that also allows you to output / save the results as a PDF - although that PDF will have to be opened / rasterized in an image editing program in order to create a hires (300dpi) jpeg for upload to the service provider.
In any event, I start in PS with a 300 dpi (ppi), white background, RGB file that is sized to the page size of the book I am designing. Typically, for me, that is either a 12×12 inch or an 8×8 inch size file. Therefore, as an example, my blank page is a PS RGB file that is 8 in. x 8 in, 300 dpi, and has a white background.
At that point, the real business of design/layout begins and, IMO, the guiding principle from here on out is keep it simple.
The first question a good designer asks him/herself is, "what's the point of this design exercise?" In our case, the answer is a relatively simple one, "to showcase pictures". The pictures are the thing, NOT typographic virtuosity or graphics wizardry. That is why in my books:
1. pictures are always presented with a white surround (essentially the equivalent of matting a picture for presentation).
2. type/text is (almost) always black or a shade of grey.
3. type/text is (almost) always relatively small.
4. graphic elements - lines, boxes, etc. are always small and subtle.
In short, because pictures are the thing, I like to keep all of the other elements of a photo book simple. The result of doing so will most always be a "clean" and "elegant" look and feel. Nothing gets in the way of viewing the pictures. They are allowed to speak for themselves. There are no distractions.
A word to the wise regarding pictures presented with a white background. I know that there are probably more than a few out there who listen to picture framers' advice regarding the color of matting when it comes to framing your photographs. IMO, and quite frankly that of the rest of the Art world, there is only ONE color for matting and that is NONE, aka - white (or any number of subtle shades thereof).
The reason for this is simple - and goes back to your workstation environment - any color that you choose to surround your picture(s) with will greatly influence the eye's perception of the colors in those pictures - the stronger the color, the stronger the influence. Colored backgrounds in photo books wherein the pictures are intended to be presented as Art (or even art) is strictly for amateurs. The same can be said for printing pictures right out the edges of the page, aka - full bleed. The exception here is covers where full bleed is most often the rule rather than the exception.
All of that said, here are a few time-saving tips:
Make a master page file that has repetitive elements on it - things like page numbers (I don't use them), titles, captions, graphic elements and guides for image sizing placement.
I like to present all of my pictures at the same size and in the same place on each page. Once I have determined that size/placement by dragging a picture (holding down the shift key in order that the picture will be centered on the page) onto my master blank page and playing around with it using the transform tool, I drag guides to the edges of the image (View>Snap ON). Then I delete the picture layer and re-save the master file.
Type elements like titles, page numbers and captions can be saved in position in the master file by creating any of the elements on the master page using the type tool. Make a separate type layer for each element and position the element where you want it to be using the typeface and size you want them to be - actually type in a title / caption / page number. Once determined, save the master file leaving the type as editable type.
Once you have a master page file, all you need to do to make a new page is drag (shift key) an image file onto it and resize it to the guides you have set up. Then highlight any text with the type tool and enter the appropriate info - new title / caption / page number. Then save the file with a new name.
Then start again on that file - delete the image, drag a new one in, redo the text elements, and save again with a new name. Keep repeating the same procedure to create as many pages as you need. Working in this manner means that you will have only one working file open at a time. This may be very important if you have a limited amount of RAM.
Once you are done making pages, you can open them one at a time. Flatten them and save them as jpegs for upload to the service provider. With both Shutterfly and SharedInk I save the jpegs with the Adobe RGB (1998) color profile embedded. To be totally honest, I do NOT know how important the Abobe RGB (1998) color profile is to the results I obtain. I live in an Adobe RGB color space world - I shoot with that profile, I edit with that profile, and save all my files with that profile. If you live in an sRGB color space world (a smaller color space world), you might want to ask the appropriate customer support for advice on that.
For those of you working with a page layout / design program to make your book (such as InDesign, Quark, et al) you are going to have to save out your book as individual page pdfs. Then you will have to open them in PS (or some other image editing program) as a rasterized file at 300dpi in order to save them as jpegs for upload. To my knowledge, there are no POD photo book service providers who accept whole document pdf files or pdf files with vector type embedded in them.
I hope this short-ish how-to helps answer some questions. I am sure many of you will have more. Ask away.